Crimp Frequency Effects on Processing Performance of Superfine Wool When Staple Length is Held Constant

Abstract

\"Four experimental wool processing batches were compiled from hogget fleeces from a superfine wool flock. The batches had essentially equal mean fibre diameter (16.7 mic), coefficient of variation of fibre diameter, staple strength and assessed character. There were two crimp frequency (CF) levels (5.5cr/cm and 9cr/cm) and two specific staple length lots (74mm and 85mm) within each CF group. These lot specifications were achieved by allocating fleeces to lots based on pre-shearing midside wool measurements and shearing certain groups at times pre-determined by wool length growth at the pre-shearing sampling. AWTA guidance testing of the lots indicated this method to be accurate in building experimental lots to tight specifications. These four wool lots were processed through to woven and knitted fabrics. Low CF was generally beneficial in topmaking with approximately 3% lower noil and improved spinning efficiency with (usually) fewer ends down. There was no distinct effect of CF on yarn quality. High CF tended to produce stiffer woven fabrics, but knitted fabrics that were less inclined to pill. These results were in broad agreement with others in the literature where either, the wool was obtained from multiple sources, CF was confounded with SL, or the wools were of broader fibre diameter classes. \"